Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts

Saturday, April 04, 2009

Surfing Dolphin Property Rights

Do the usual surfing rules apply when a human shares a wave with a dolphin? If so, I might have pissed off one of Flipper's kin, yesterday. But I think that because dolphins use waves differently from humans, both species can ride the same wave without conflict. So, at least, my story of cross-species surfing suggests.

Here's how it went down: I was surfing Churches with my former Marine (not "ex-Marine!") bud, Tracy, who uses his base pass to get us parking right on the beach. We had been surfing for a while when I heard him and some of the other guys yelling and whistling. I looked up to see a pod of dolphins surfing down the face of a big set wave that was rolling towards us. The dolphins glided just under the surface of the water and then—Pow! Pow! Pow!—started leaping into the air and back into the wave. That alone made it a Super Special Rainbow Unicorn Day (with sparklies). The fun, though, had only just begun.

I guess the other guys were too busy laughing and clapping to notice that the wave was shaping up pretty nicely, or maybe they were too deep where it began breaking, but for whatever reason the face came to me with nobody on it. The dolphins seemed to have disappeared, too. So I whipped my board around, took a couple of strokes, and nailed it. As I came out of my bottom turn and hit the lip, I looked down to see a dolphin still in the wave, some 10 feet ahead of me, speeding along under the surface. I laughed and yelled, "Yeah, bro! Let's go!" The dolphin and I rode along a bit, together, and then it peeled off and rejoined its pod. I finished out the wave, getting a nice long ride and a nice big smile.

On the paddle back out, though, my conscience pricked me. The dolphin had caught the wave and worked out to its shoulder when I dropped in at the sweet spot, blocking the dolphin from a making a cutback to the face. Under the usual, human rules of surfing etiquette, I almost certainly would have been in the wrong. I'd get some slack, perhaps, because I couldn't see the dolphin gliding along under water. Then, too, the dolphin was so far out on the shoulder that, even if I had seen it, I might have safely whipped some turns inside, remaining ready to pull out if the dolphin began to cut back. And, of course, it would have been a perfectly fine maneuver between friends—but I didn't even know the dolphin's name.

Ultimately, though, I decided that I had not triggered a cross-species diplomatic incident. As I've explained elsewhere, surfing's rules of etiquette create transitory property rights in wave faces, a custom that helps us humans maximize the a very valuable and scarce resource: surfable wave faces. Dolphins don't surf the same way that humans do, though. They have so much power, speed, and efficiency that they can ride waves far out from the steep, breaking portions that we humans require. Like mega longboarders, dolphins pick up waves long before they begin to pitch, tend to ride far out on the shoulder, and eschew sharp turns for long, graceful lines.


I conclude that dolphins and surfers—especially shortboarders—can happily share the same waves without conflict. So, at least, my experience suggests. So, too, does this video of humans and dolphins peacefully enjoying the same waves.

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Thursday, April 02, 2009

Longboard Helicopter! Shortboard Air?

Today I finally managed a surf move that I've been on working for over a year: a fin-forward take-off with a regular-footed pop-up, followed by a 180-degree spin and a goofy-footed ride, wrapped up with a switch-step back to regular. If you're not a surfer, that might not mean much to you, granted. Suffice it to so say that it rates as reasonably difficult longboard trick.

I can't say I exactly nailed the move, but neither did I just slop through it. It helped, I think, that I grabbed the rail during the turn and made sure to work up some momentum before trying to switch my stance. Perhaps on a longer board, with practice, I could pull off a graceful cross-step. As it was, on my 9'0", I had to sort of shuffle through the transition.

Next on my surfing "to do" list: Getting air. For that, I'll rely on my shortest and favorite board, the 6'10" hybrid fish that I added to my quiver about three years ago. These days, I surf it almost exclusively. I still remember fondly the first time I really figured out how to work a wave on that little pony: August 17, 2006. After a long, ripping ride on a waist-high right at Churches, I flopped down, grinned, and thought, "Ahhh! So that is why people shortboard!"

Since then, I've gotten ton of great rides on that board. I've figured out how to pump it down the line, stomp the tail, and even throw a little spray. But although I've had some pretty good drives off the lip, I don't think I've gotten it fully airborne; the fins have yet to disengage. Perhaps I need a shorter board or bigger waves. More likely, though, I just need more practice. That, I will find it a pleasure to try!

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Sunday, January 18, 2009

Physical (Re)Education 101

My co-blogger and host, Glen, might object, but I'd argue that "agoraphilia" covers not just "love of markers," but also "love of the great outdoors." Surely, the meaning of "agora" reaches at least that far. Allow me, then, to update you on my adventures under the open sky; here, specifically: surfing.

I've continued the training program that I began during my sabbatical, about year ago, and have gotten fairly competent on my 6'10" hybrid fish. I've also put a lot of time into figuring out my newest board, a 7'2" Channel Island M13, and had some great rides. These days, I surf those two boards almost exclusively. My wave count has improved a lot and I'm starting to get a handle on pumping for acceleration, cut-backs, and sometimes even throwing a little spray. I've yet to get any air, though.

I'm a little worried that if I go back to longboarding I might suffer a relapse, and put my hard-won shortboarding skills at risk. The last few times I've taken out my longboard—a performance-shaped 9-footer—I've thus limited myself to fin-forward paddling and takeoffs. I'm getting OK at spinning it, but I still haven't figured out how to cross-step back to regular footing. Instead, I just finish out my (usually short) rides goofy-footed.

Today, though, I just might let myself indulge in some good old fashioned, straight-up longboarding. I'm heading to Church's with my Marine buddy (who can use his pass to park us right on the beach) and we're expecting a mackin' swell. He always longboards, and it'll be nice to hang with him outside, picking off the bigger sets. Besides, I think I've earned a gravy session; yesterday, for the first time ever, I surfed Lowers! The swell had not started showing, so it wasn't crowded, and I got some good rides on the small but well-shaped waves. It took me over ten years of preparation, but I finally can say I've shortboarded one of the world's premier breaks!

I might say more about that preparation—which has included special trail running and gym exercises of my own devising—in a later post. And as long as I'm covering physical training, I should probably throw in an update on my semi-prone bike, which I recently took out of storage, upgraded, and put through some test rides. Right now, though, I've got to saddle up for the first big winter swell of the season!

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Friday, November 14, 2008

Sensible Khakis: An Entrepreneurial Anthem

Entrepreneurs rock! You wouldn't guess it, though, to listen to rock music. (Marc Knopfler's, Boom, Like That, says something about the founding and rise of McDonald's, granted, but it hardly casts the enterprise in a very flattering light.) So in honor of entrepreneurs everywhere—but especially those in the board sports industries, whom I thank for making some very fun toys—I offer Sensible Khakis:



Like Take Up the Flame, which I coughed up on YouTube last week, Sensible Khakis' license leaves you free to play it just for fun. You can find the chords and lyrics—including the law-geek verse, not included in the video above, about the choices entrepreneurs face between sole proprietorships, corporations, LLPs, and LLCs—here. Like the terms attached to Take Up the Flame, any commercial licensees of Sensible Khakis will have to pay a tithe to one of my favorite causes—this time, Surfrider Foundation. That is not a likely scenario, admittedly, but I figure that the thought counts for something.


[Crossposted at Agoraphilia and Technology Liberation Front.]

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